The Workings of The Business Suit!

‘Every woman should have a beautifully tailored suit that can be dressed up or down with a smart shirt or dressed down and mixed with denim or knitwear’ Paul Smith

The suit should be the foundation of most women’s working wardrobe but to keep it performing well you need to put time and effort into finding the right quality, cut and colour and if it’s well cared for can give several seasons’ service – making one of your biggest buys one of the most economical.

How to find the right suit

Don’t think cost think quality. Well fitting suits are available in every price range.

Do try on an expensive suit to get an idea of how good it fits and moves. This will give you a high standard from which to measure your eventual, cheaper purchase.

Do take the time to find the right cut. Try it on. Remember that items on the hanger look very different on the figure.

Don’t forget that a suit can be split and turned into several completely different looks.  

Do break up the pieces so that they can work as separates. It might be practical to buy a three-piece (jacket, skirt and trousers) for optimum versitility.

Do consider your shoes. If wearing with heels, take a pair along to make sure you get a better idea of the trouser length and cut.

Do consider the fabric. If you are looking for a hardworking, everyday suit, choose one with a stretch microfibre mixed in with the wool – the stretch will add comfort, durability and a greater resistance to creasing. Wool mix is best for smart tailoring as it moulds to your body shape and can be worn all year round.

Don’t wear linen or cotton, as you will look like a bag lady by lunchtime. If you must, look for a linen-silk mix for a casual summer look, the silk content can prevent a lot of creasing.

Don’t buy oversized lapels or embelishments like feature buttons and trims, as this will date the most classic shape.

Don’t buy this season’s most fashionable shade. Classic shades are best for your basics – think black, navy and grey.

Don’t overlook pattern: modest pinstripe or subtle tweed will stay the course. Check that the patterns line up at the seams of the shoulders and lapels.

Do consider your best jacket length. Make sure the waist sits at the narrowest part of your body. On petites, shorter length jackets work best with trousers.

Do test for jacket fit. Make sure collar lies flat against the back of your neck. Shoulders should be lightly padded, neither too boxy nor sloped and lapels should lie flat over the bust. Well-made suits have full rayon linings, neatly finished hems, hand-sewn buttonholes (identifiable by their irregular stitching) and always check that buttons are securely sewn on.

Don’t wear double-breasted jackets if you are full-busted. Look for at least three button styles or zip front jackets to help tuck you in, especially in a formal business setting.

Do wear shapely or belted jackets if you are curvy.

Do try heavier fabrics and textures if you have a Boyish shape.

Do select your trousers style. Flat front styles are more slimming. Pay attention to the crotch area – make sure it lies perfectly flat against your body. Straight leg styles are flattering and elongating.

Don’t wear high-waisted styles or pleats if you are pear shaped. If the trouser fits perfectly but have side pockets consider sewing them up or having them removed.

Don’t wear turn-ups if you are petite, they will swamp you proportionally.

Do consider turn-ups if you are over 5’8 in height or have long legs and short torso.

Do test your skirt fit. Skirts should fall straight. A flare skirt looks best with a slim fitting jacket.

Do start looking for some good quality trend-driven additions – like chiffon blouse, delicate cardigan and tailored shirt to keep you looking fresh and current from week to week.

Do take the suit from day to night by simply switching your top and accessories. Ditch the shirt for a silk camisole or lace-trimmed bustier. Or if the jacket gives enough coverage don’t be afraid to just button it up and forgo the top entirely and add a statement piece of jewellery (dangly earrings/necklace/cuff bracelets) instead. Swap your sensible shoes for strappy open-toe or the latest cone-heeled stilettos. Finally touch up your make-up and let your hair down!

Joan Cashman is the inspiration behind The Colour and Image Academy – a unique centre that specialises in all aspects of makeup and image consultancy – Joan is recognised in Ireland and abroad for her expertise in the image business and her training techniques and unique approach enables both men and women to excel in the very competitive business.

Joan has had a long and distinguished career being head of Colour Me Beautiful in Ireland. She set-up her first studio in the Savoy Shopping Centre in the late 90s and rapidly developed her business taking on the demanding roll of European Trainer along the way. She has worked with thousands of individuals, been featured in national and local media and is a regular contributor to beauty, fashion and lifestyle magazines. This landmark Academy has the reputation for providing inspiring, thorough training in the image industry and this busy studio has a long waiting list for private consultations.

Colour and Image academy
Studio: 2 carey's lane (off patrick's st) cork
Head Office: rossacon, newmarket, co. cork
 
T: 021 427 6330